Programs for 2020 are as follows:
- February 27 – repotting with Bob Gould and exposed root demo by Darren Wong
- March 26 – cutting back for spring growth by Darren and Laura Wong
- April 23 – presentation on suggestions and tips for our spring show by Ron Reid and Maria Sargent
- May 30 & 31 – Annual Spring Show
- September 22 – presentation on bonsai container selection with special raffle, presenter TBA
- October 22 – presentation on fertilizers and pesticides, presenter TBA
- November 19 – Annual Potluck Dinner and Slideshow Program for 2020
It happens to everyone! Failure to rotate your bonsai brings about troublesome results. You may be positioning your bonsai, in this case Satsuki Azalea “Kaho”, next to the backyard fence with shade trees. The location gets inadequate sun light. The morning sun is blocked by the neighbor’s shade trees and the six foot high fence. The only sun light on that location comes in the mid to late afternoon. By not rotating the Satsuki Azalea bonsai often enough, the back side of the tree fails to get sufficient sun light. The leaves shrivel and die off on the side without the adequate sun light. By rotating the bonsai frequently, at least once per week, sun light is present and leaves receive a good balance of sun light for healthy growth. This will elevate parts of the tree getting weak.
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Foliage receiving adequate sun light 
Foliage receiving adequate sun light
Foliage receiving inadequate sun light due to lack of rotation 
Foliage receiving inadequate sun light due to lack of rotation
The Golden State Bonsai Federation (GSBF) Golden Statements Magazine is free and online live.
Here is a direct link to the Golden Statements Magazine for your reading enjoyment.
The following instructions have been provided by Darren Wong to insure our satsuki azaleas are repotted properly for health and vigor throughout the year:
• Start in February. Begin with the “narrow leaf” varieties first. In March continue with all other varieties.
• Kanuma size is important; use 100% small size for shohin, for larger trees use a 50/50 mix of medium and small. The larger the azalea, the less small size you use.
• In general remove approximately 50% of root ball and 1″ from sides. Typically work down 3/4 to 1 inch on the surface. Sides should be flat with slightly brushed edges so that a very, very small root end is exposed.
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• Be extremely careful in combing out surface roots. If you use a rake turn it so the tines are parallel to the roots to prevent tearing. A better solution is a fine root hook or chopstick.
• Use large drainage mesh on bottom of pot for everything except shohin. This helps water drain better in the pot.
• Use a layer of larger kanuma on bottom of pot for trees larger than shohin.
• Create a cone of soil in the center of the pot so that the tree can be ‘screwed’ into the soil to reduce air pockets under the tree.
• If repotting a bare-rooted tree, or one with open space on the bottom of the tree, be sure to all all holes with kanuma. Leave no air pockets which will result in dead roots = dead branches = dead trees.
Editor’s note: Jonas Dupuich just posted an excellent article on repotting satsuki where he recommends turning the tree upside down, filling all holes between roots with kanuma and working it in gently with a chopstick, then moistening the soil to keep it in place when the tree is turned upside down to go into the pot.
• After tying tree into the pot add kanuma slowly and work into the roots as you go, leaving no voids around the roots, but do not over work the chopping-in process which will crush the kanuma and impede proper drainage.
• Fill pot with kanuma once soil has been properly worked into the roots, and top off with a layer of mountain moss – yamagoke.
• After repotting products like Hormex® can be added to provide health to the trees and resupply beneficial bacteria which may have been killed with a prior year treatment of Subdue®.
• Be mindful of watering after repotting and don’t overdo it.
• Keep trees protected from excess wind, cold and ‘Atmospheric Rivers’.
• Wait for at least 30 days to begin fertilization.
Second Editors Note: In a discussion with Peter Tea about the problem many have with root rot he suggested adding some pumice to the kanuma soil mix to create a drier mix which could reduce or eliminate the problem. Darren has not tried this and his take was to add about 20% yamagoke to the kanuma which might accomplish the same goal.
At our February meeting Bob Gould suggest that if the above method is tried with pumice that the drier mix should only be used on the bottom 1/4 or 1/3 of the pot.